The stories of French arrogance are legion and disparagement is nearly automatic among Americans. While I had one awful experience in Budapest at the hands of a man from France, to me the French are almost always delightful. From servers in restaurants to drivers on French roads I’ve encountered patience and class. I’ve called on their kindness many times and they’ve responded. That I don’t speak their language and so many of them speak mine deepens the gratitude.
Arriving in Nice at midnight and driving for the first time in Europe was harrowing. Roads must have been designed with the intent to confuse and endanger. A night clerk at a hotel we had not booked saved our lives as she directed us to the one we did.
I can now say though that I have driven where they know how. The French expressways, while expensive, are a marvel. The passing lane is literally that. Moving at fairly high speeds—130 kilometers (80 miles an hour)—you flow. There is almost always a lane to pass. Drivers, whether fast or slow, simply do not camp in the high speed lane. Similar principles cause traffic to flow in town. Aggressive movement but with the absence of road rage.
In Avignon Monday the cyber café came to a standstill as the manager and one of her English-speaking customers studied and learned correct directions to our hotel. Their caring set the tone for a sweet overnight visit to Avignon and its Palais des Papes.
Tuesday morning included a drive-by through Chateaux-du-Pape. There was a minor epiphany: this is where we will stay in the future. The village that carries the name of the district is beautiful. Beauty and great wine—what more could one ask from life. Time on the water perhaps.
For us, Le Lavandou delivers. Home for the next two days it is rest and restoration on the coast of France in preparation for Italy.
We pass our time in a room with a view of the Mediterranean. Cross a narrow street and we’re at a most beautiful beach. Life is full.
